Tag Archives: oily skin

The Big Picture on Exfoliation

by Casey Durrett, LEI – Social Media Director and National Educator, SkinPhD

If you’ve spent much time in the world of beauty, you’ll know that exfoliation seems to be the answer to everything skin. If you’ve got wrinkles – exfoliate. If you’re breaking out – exfoliate. If your complexion is dull – exfoliate. If you’ve got sun spots – exfoliate. If you’re dry – exfoliate. If you’re oily – exfoliate. So how is it that this one action can help to improve so many unsightly skin conditions? And with so many choices on the market today, how are we to know what to look for in an exfoliation product? How do all these different types of products really work with the skin? And could it be that there are risks associated with the overuse and/or misuse of these products?

 

If you’re a skin care therapist, or if you’ve visited one – you know we estheticians love our exfoliants. We love to use scrubs, enzymes, hydroxy acids, microdermabrasion, and chemical peels. Aside from a handful of conditions that contraindicate exfoliating, you’ll see us prescribing the use of exfoliants for just about every skin care concern imaginable. The chart below will provide information on some of the common skin types and concerns and how exfoliating properly can improve them.

 

How Exfoliation Improves Common Skin Types and Concerns

Dry Skin

An actual dry skin “type” is skin that does not produce adequate oil.   This is not to be confused with normal or oily skin that is experiencing a   build-up of dry, flaky skin cells. Truly dry skin may be fragile, sensitive,   and have a tendency to age prematurely. Proper exfoliation of dry skin will   improve skin texture and increase the movement of new healthy cells to the   skin’s surface. It may also improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles   commonly associated with drier skin.

 

Oily Skin

In oily skin, dead skin cells may have a harder time shedding from   the skin because excess oil works as a glue that keeps dead skin cells stuck   to the surface of the skin. This combination of oil and excess dead skin   cells can clog follicles and lead to increased follicle size and breakouts.

 

Excess Pigmentation

Pigmentation concerns are a 3-phase process. Excess pigmentation is   first activated by some form of stimuli (hormonal, inflammatory, etc.),   melanin is then synthesized inside melanocytes (melanin producing cells) and   delivered to the surrounding skin cells. The final phase of this process is   what we call “expression” this is where we visibly see pigmentation on the   skin’s surface. Exfoliation targets the “expression” stage by sloughing off   pigmented cells that have moved to the higher surface layers of the skin. It   also improves the rate of cell migration from lower layers of the epidermis   which can help pigmented cells to surface and be shed off more quickly. It is   important to note, however, that exfoliating alone is not a viable option for   controlling pigmentation concerns. All three phases must be targeted to   provide a true solution for skin with excess pigmentation.

 

Breakouts

Breakouts can be attributed to a number of factors. We often see   complications with excess oil, uneven shedding of the follicles, acne-causing   bacteria being trapped in the follicles, and excess dead skin cell build-up   (other factors may be involved in breakouts as well). By responsibly   exfoliating skin that is prone to breakouts, we can reduce the amount of dead   skin cells on the skin’s surface, and with certain topical ingredients the   follicle interior can also be exfoliated. This can allow increased oxygen   into the skin, decrease the amount of trapped bacteria, and clear the skin of   congestive factors that contribute to breakouts.

 

Aging Skin

As we age the process of cells dividing and moving up through the   layers of the skin is slowed. Dead and rough cells linger on the skin’s surface   longer and eventually we see an increased build-up of these dead, dry cells.   As the top of the skin is thickening, the lower layers of the skin that keep   the skin looking firm and plump are decreasing in thickness. Rough texture,   lack of a healthy glow, fine lines and wrinkles are all common signs of skin   that is aging or prematurely aging.    Exfoliation of aging/prematurely aging skin can smooth the skin’s   surface, speed up the rate at which new, healthy cells are delivered to the   surface, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Certain   exfoliating agents actually penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and   help to restore vitality to the areas of the skin where problems actually begin.

 

 

Responsible Exfoliation:  Brings Positive Results without Negative Side Effects

As you can see, exfoliation is an integral tool in managing a variety of skin concerns. Texture is improved, new and healthy cells can move more quickly to the surface, breakouts and excessive pigmentation can be reduced, complexion can become brighter and more radiant, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles can be significantly reduced. The key to these improvements, however, is exfoliating in a way that brings about these positive changes without damaging the integrity of the skin.

The skin is an important barrier and a living organ. It is designed with purpose and function. All too often skin is attacked, abraded, peeled, scrubbed, and over-exfoliated to the point of creating damage to not only the barrier of the skin but also the deeper tissues. The results of improper exfoliation can lead to disrupted barrier function, increased skin sensitivity, injury to fragile capillaries, stimulation of excess melanin in darker skin types, damage to the lower layers of the skin, and premature aging.  Unfortunately, we don’t always see this damage taking place, so we don’t make the connection between exfoliating too much (or improperly) with negative changes happening in our skin.

Higher levels of exfoliation should be left to the hands of well-trained professionals. Chemical peels and microdermabrasion should not be performed at home and should be administered by licensed skin therapists. Home-care exfoliants such as alpha hydroxy acids and scrubs should be gentle, used as prescribed, and the skin should be monitored for any changes good or bad. Irritation, excessive redness and/or flaking of the skin are all signs that we may be over-exfoliating. For breakout prone skin, over-exfoliating may actually stimulate additional breakouts.

 

Choosing and Using Exfoliants Properly

  • Chemical formulations that include alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acid, enzymes, etc. should be gentle and not cause excessive stinging, burning, or discomfort. Pain is often associated with a
    product “working” – this is a dangerous viewpoint. Exfoliation does not have to be painful to work!

 

  • Look for formulas that have added benefits. A great exfoliator won’t just take away the dead skin cells it will have added ingredients to create additional benefits in the skin. For instance, an exfoliator for dry skin should be formulated differently than an exfoliator for oily or breakout prone skin. Be sure your product is targeted to your specific skin type and condition/s.

 

  • Mechanical exfoliants such as facial scrubs should not be overly abrasive and should not be aggressively scrubbed into and over the skin. Go for a “polishing” movement rather than a heavy handed scrubbing action. These exfoliants are best suited to skin when the abrading agent isn’t extremely rough and jagged. The ever popular “apricot scrubs” are well known for creating micro-tears in the skin which, though invisible, lead to inflammation and barrier disruption.

 

  • More isn’t better. Over-using exfoliators is more detrimental to the skin than failing to exfoliate at all. Use exfoliants as directed. Generally, an exfoliant should be used 1-2 times per week, but this will vary according to product type and strength. Follow package directions.

 

Exfoliating Products worth Discovering

With the above guidelines in mind, I’d like to introduce you the SkinPhD exfoliating products. These products are designed to promote positive changes in the skin without causing irritation or barrier disruption. I have personally used each of these products and work with them professionally in my skin care business. They are effective, non-irritating, and the results of regular use are beautiful.

AHA 7   Fruit Amidroxy Exfoliator


Selected Best Anti-Aging Product!
see www.drozshow.com

This concentrated serum contains a special blend   of red and citrus fruits that gently and effectively exfoliate the skin   leaving it radiant and with improved color and complexion.

  •   Provitamin B5   moisturizes the skin, makes the skin more elastic, and has an anti-inflammatory   effect
  •   Natural sources of   alpha hydroxy acids contain minerals, vitamins, and proteins. These   substances work together to slough away dead skin cells, stimulate collagen   synthesis, and increase cellular renewal.
  •   Red Fruit Amidroxy   is rich in minerals, Vitamin C, Flavanoids and other skin improving actives   providing cellular regeneration and protection against free radical damage.
  •   Suitable for all   skin types
AHA Gentle Exfoliating CreamIdeal for the Special Needs   of Dry Skin – A gentle exfoliating   cream that effectively helps slough away dead, dry skin cells while also   moisturizing and improving skin softness.

  •   Exfoliates with a   multi-fruit alpha hydroxy acid complex that increases cellular regeneration   and collagen synthesis while restoring radiance to dry skin.
  •   Contains Spirulina   which is rich in protein, vitamins, and minerals.
  •   This unique   formulation also contains shea butter which has unique healing properties and   a wonderful fatty acid profile that moisturizes the skin, improves elasticity,   and prevents wrinkle formation.
  •   An effective   formula for dry skin – exfoliation and rich moisturizing activity in one   product.
 AHA Exfoliating Cream
  Papaya Enzymatic ExfoliantA Wonderful Skin-Polisher   with Enzymes and Micro-SpongesThis   enzymatic exfoliant also contains soft, round micro-sponges that soften and   smooth the skin.

  •   Enzymes in this   formula effectively remove dead skin cells while avoiding irritation and   dryness.
  •   Contains Vitamins   A and C to neutralize free radicals.
  •   Micro-Sponges   gently cleanse and polish the skin’s surface.
  •   Ideal for darker   skin, oily skin, and thick skin.
  •   This product is an   excellent replacement to harsh scrubs that actually cause damage in the skin.

Think over your current exfoliation routine. Have you been using the same product or method for an extended period of time and aren’t seeing visible results? If so, I want to encourage you to review how you’re exfoliating – how often, in what way, and is the product you’re using appropriate for your skin? Is it providing benefits beyond removing dead cells?  If not, it’s time for a change!

Healthy, radiant skin is an attainable goal, and SkinPhD exfoliants can help you reach that goal more quickly, without irritation, and with results you will definitely see.

For more information on our products and signature therapies, please visit us at www.skinphd.com.

New SkinPhD Ranges featuring Honeybush and Zincite

  

 

by Casey Durrett, LEI - Social Media Director and National Educator, SkinPhD

SkinPhD is unveiling several new product ranges this summer that target very specific skin care concerns. These new product ranges include our Platinum range that centers on Optimal Aging and our Clarify range that improves the challenges often seen in oily skin types.

I’m so thrilled to be writing this blog! Why? Because I’m so fond of the new SkinPhd Platinum and Clarify formulations and I want to share my excitement with you!  Working in the skin care industry means that I’m exposed to many different product and treatment options on an on-going basis. My philosophy in skin care is that we must provide positive change in the appearance of the skin without creating negative side effects and without damaging or creating an imbalance in the skin. Oddly enough, this can actually be a tricky feat for skin therapists. A number of professional treatments and product actives may create a positive effect in the skin, but when used in excess or improperly these same treatments and ingredients can be highly aggressive and detrimental to skin health. I believe we find these types of actives and treatments most abundantly in the anti-aging and oil-control/breakout realms, and this is why I’m thrilled about the new SkinPhD Platinum and SkinPhD Clarify ranges.

SkinPhD Platinum and SkinPhD Clarify will improve challenging skin care concerns without compromising skin health. In fact, these products will encourage the integrity of the skin! Let’s now look at these two ranges and a couple of the ingredients that make them unique.

SkinPhD Clarify is developed for clients who have oily and challenging skin.

 

A key feature of this product range is the Honeybush plant – a natural anti-bacterial and anti-fungal plant from the Cape of South Africa. Honeybush is a close cousin to the well-known Rooibos plant. Often consumed as a tea, Honeybush is characterized by a sweet, honey-like scent.

In our Clarify line, Honeybush not only reduces levels of bacteria in the skin but also provides other layers of protection much needed by oily and problem-prone skin – including anti-inflammatory activity and antioxidant protection.

 

Key features of Honeybush:

  • Anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral
  • Limits the growth and reproduction of Propionibacterium Acnes (P. acnes) – the bacteria associated with breakouts
  • Anti-inflammatory
  • Contains minerals including iron, potassium, calcium, copper, zinc, manganese, and sodium
  • Improves skin healing and reduces irritation
  • Rich in polyphenol antioxidants
  • Gentle, non-sensitizing

 

 

 

SkinPhD Platinum is a cosemceutical range formulated for mature skin that is experiencing dryness, changes in hormone levels, fine lines, and wrinkles.

  

In addition to living plant cells, peptides, and patented collagen-building actives, this range contains Zincite – a zinc carbonate that may be found in an array of colors. The use of zinc dates back to ancient times when the Chinese used the mineral to reduce scarring.

Modern science has come to know zinc as an important mineral in the activity of over 200 enzymes. Zinc also plays an important role in every biological component related to growth and development.

Key Features of Zincite:

  • Plays a vital role in DNA and RNA metabolism – without zinc, cell division ceases
  • Assists in elastin and collagen synthesis
  • Protects DNA
  • Increases cellular repair
  • Suitable for daily application
  • Provides constant cellular protection against environmental stress
  • Improves skin elasticity and texture
  • Accelerates the renewal of skin cells
  • Reduces MMP-related collagen degradation
  • Non-iritating

 
As you looked over these featured ingredients did you notice the multiple-benefits they both possess? These are the types of ingredients we at SkinPhD love! As nearly all skin care concerns are related to multiple factors within the skin, we require ingredients with multi-faceted functions to truly create a positive environment for healthy change in the skin’s appearance.

SkinPhD Platinum and Clarify are full of sensible, suitable, effective ingredients and will deliver the results our clients demand.

For more information on our products, ingredients, or signature therapies, please visit us at www.skinphd.com.



Uncovering the Many Benefits of Marula Oil

A Gift to the Skin from Africa

 

 

by Casey Durrett, LEI - Social Media Director and National Educator, SkinPhD

Summer is going to be an exciting season with SkinPhd. As we unveil new and wonderfully unique product formulations, users of our products will be introduced to some fantastic ingredients that are sure to become favorites.

As a skin care therapist, I’m constantly reading labels. I read product descriptions and ingredient lists like they were novels. My eyes scan over the often difficult to pronounce ingredients and my brain processes through each one of them in a “This does this, that does that… Oh what’s this?!” sort of fashion, and when I find something I’m unfamiliar with – I research it. Today I’m going to discuss an ingredient that I wasn’t very familiar with until I began working with SkinPhD, but once I learned about it and how it functions in our Renaissance range I quickly became excited. In case you’re unfamiliar with our Renaissance products, they are formulated for the unique needs of skin of color, and Marula oil (today’s featured ingredient) is a key constituent of the Renaissance range.

Marula oil is an extraordinary plant oil, indigenous to regions in Africa including South Africa, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, Malawi, and Zambia, Mozambique, and Swaziland.

The Marula tree may grow up to 20 meters in height (about 65 feet), and is found in low altitudes and open woodland areas. The ripened fruit of the Marula tree is yellow to light orange in color with a very thick skin and possesses about 8 times the amount of Vitamin C found in an orange. Inside the fruit are hard-shelled seeds which contain two to three kernels. Marula oil is extracted from these kernels.

The history and uses of Marula have been traced back thousands of years. Marula fruit may be eaten fresh or used to make jellies, juices, and alcoholic beverages. The oil has numerous skin benefits and is used to condition and protect the skin. The bark has been used to treat fever, malaria, scorpion stings and snake bites. The tree is referred to as the “Marriage Tree” by some cultures, and the bark is brewed to create a tonic which is used as part of cleansing ritual prior to marriage ceremonies. The leaves are commonly used to treat heartburn and indigestion while other parts of the tree may be harvested for use in certain tribal ink preparations, for creating dyes for craft wares, and for making rope.

Now that we’ve discovered what the Marula tree is and its many uses, let’s discuss what Marula oil can do for the skin.

Marula oil is rich in mono-unsaturated fatty acids. These protective, healthy fats help restore the barrier of the skin leading to increased hydration, elasticity, smoothness, and suppleness of the skin. Marula oil absorbs quickly so it will not leave the skin feeling heavy or greasy. This is a fantastic benefit, as those of us who work with skin well know – our clients who have oily or breakout prone skin often need skin conditioning agents that will reduce trans-epidermal water loss but they will be unhappy with any topical that makes their skin feel greasy or heavy. Marula oil has shown itself to be effective in producing positive, visible improvement in both dry and oily or breakout prone skin.

Marula oil is also rich in antioxidants including tocopherols (Vitamin E), flavanols, condensed tannins, and catechins (similar to those found in green tea).

These antioxidants protect the skin from free radical damage, but the oil has an added benefit that many antioxidants cannot claim: it is highly stable. This means that Marula oil has exceptional resistance to oxidative degradation and easily stays efficacious in product formulations. We skin therapists, recognizing the detrimental activity of free radicals, are always thrilled to hear about the antioxidant properties of given ingredients, but we must also be aware of whether our ingredients have a viable shelf life and whether or not these ingredients degrade quickly once the package has been opened. Marula oil is remarkably stable and will provide your clients with antioxidant protection long after the bottle has been opened.

In addition to the wonderful benefits described above, Marula oil has also been shown to improve the appearance of skin affected by the following conditions:

  • Dry / Cracked
  • Psoriasis
  • Eczema
  • Redness
  • Acne
  • Wrinkled
  • Scarring
  • Sun damaged
  • Chapped lips

 

Finally, I’d like to discuss one facet of this ingredient that makes me even happier. Though I may work as a skin therapist, I’m first and foremost a human being – with love in my heart for all the people of the world and all the world’s rich wildlife and geography. Our Marula oil comes from a fair trade, ethically sourced, and environmentally sustainable supply chain. That’s great news to me, and I’m sure it is to you too!

For more information on Skin PhD products, technologies, and signature therapies, please visit www.skinphd.com.

Founders of Placécol USA Launch New Cosmeceutical Skin Care Line – SkinPhD

by Casey Durrett, LEI – Social Media Director, Placécol USA & SkinPhD
   
Beyond Beauty & Skin – The founders of Placécol USA are launching a potent, clinically-endorsed range of cosmeceutical skin care products – SkinPhD. Our products are formulated and manufactured in South Africa where rich African extracts and the latest innovations in cosmetic technology are combined to create a product range that balances, nourishes, and renews the skin. 
 

Our philosophy in caring for and correcting skin results in a product portfolio that has undergone rigorous testing, is suitable for sensitive skin, and is endorsed by dermatologists. SkinPhD products are intended to correct and balance the skin without aggression. Our formulators ensure that the ingredients used in our products will create positive changes in the skin through the use of materials that improve the skin’s barrier function, maintain healthy skin pH, reduce inflammatory conditions, and bring balance to the oil and water content of the skin. All skin types experience positive results when these important areas of skin health are addressed.    

 As a cosmeceutical range, our products rely on bio-active ingredients to produce beneficial changes in the appearance of the skin. Bio-active ingredients work beyond the skin’s surface to create true change. Some benefits of bio-active ingredients include increased cellular renewal and regeneration, improved barrier function, and the stabilization of collagen and elastin. SkinPhD features a host of bio-actives including vitamins, polysaccharides, botanicals, proteins, peptides, and enzymes.    

 
The SkinPhD product portfolio includes:    

  • Core Range – These daily care products are formulated with beneficial ingredients such as Prickly Ash Bark which promotes wound healing and increases circulation, and Niacinamide which increases barrier function, improves collagen synthesis, and reduces hyperpigmentation concerns. In addition to fundamental products like cleansers and moisturizers, SkinPhD offers specialized products that target key areas of concern including eye and lip care, skin firming, and cellutlite.
  •  RenaissanceA complete range of products for skin of color – This range addresses the unique needs of skin of color and features indigenous African ingredients Marula extract and Kalahari Melon.
  • Platinum A complete range of optimal aging products – These powerful anti-aging formulations contain Phyto-Hormones, Collagen-Building Actives, high levels of Antioxidants, and Zincite. Zincite is a semi-precious stone that plays an important role in the metabolism of DNA maintaining their double-helix structure, aids in cellular proliferation and survival and brings long-term geno-protective benefits.

In addition to our existing product ranges, SkinPhD will be launching an exciting new selection of products intended to clarify problem skin. This range will feature a powerful yet natural purifying ingredient – Honeybush. Honeybush is a sibling of Rooibos and is cultivated in South Africa’s Eastern Cape region. It is a natural anti-fungal agent and is rich in iron, potassium, calcium, copper, zinc, magnesium, and manganese.    

   
Left: Zincite – A feature ingredient of SkinPhD’s Platinum range
Right: Honeybush – A potent ingredient in SkinPhD’s upcoming Clarify range  

  

 SkinPhD reaches beyond beauty and skin.
Value, excellence, and integrity are at the core of our vision.
Our products are a viable choice for skin of all types, conditions, and ethnicities. We welcome you to the SkinPhD brand and invite you to experience the wonderful changes our products have to offer.