Tag Archives: exfoliation

Summer Skin Prep: Exfoliation

Why is exfoliation an important part of your skin care regimen?

Exfoliation refers to the removal of the dead skin cells on the skin’s surface. Our skin cells are in a constant state of migration and replacement. In approximately one month’s time, skin cells move up to the surface of the skin ( the epidermis), where they eventually die, break away from cell cycle

the epidermis, and fall off, making room for newer cells growing up from below. Therefore, the skin you have a month from today will be different compared to the skin you have now.

Our skin’s cellular renewal rate slows down when we age. This is because there is less blood circulation, less oxygen is delivered to skin cells, so they are not replaced as quickly. This leads to a buildup of dull, dead surface cells and rough skin texture. When this build up occurs, skin conditions such as uneven skin tone and texture, fine lines and wrinkles, and pore size enlargement are more prevalent. Furthermore, if your skin tends to be more oily, the build-up of dead skin cells can result in excess oil and clogged pores, leading to blemishes and acne.

Proper exfoliation removes the barrier of dead skin cells clogging the skin and uncovers fresh new cells below. This opens the way for serums and moisturizing products to penetrate more deeply into the skin, which makes them more effective. A regular exfoliating routine will leave your skin looking more vibrant and healthy. The type of exfoliation and frequency will vary by skin type, issues, and sensitivity.

Retna copyright, please save in library woman smiling wet hair flannel washing face retna

 

Exfoliators Explained:

There are 3 types of exfoliators: 1) mechanical, 2) chemical, and 3) enzymatic. While mechanical exfoliators physically remove dead skin cells through a scrubbing action, chemical and enzymatic exfoliators work on the bonds, which hold the skin together.

Mechanical Exfoliation:
Mechanical exfoliators include scrubs and micro-dermabrasion. Be careful to only use round, spherical beads in mechanical exfoliation or it can create micro-tears and worsen your skin’s texture. Do not use mechanical exfoliation if you have broken capillaries (teleang­iectasia).

Alpha Hydroxy Acids:
What they do: They cause the cells of the epidermis to become “unglued” allowing the dead cells to slough off, making room for regrowth of new skin. AHA may even stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. The following are the five major types of alpha hydroxy acids found in skincare products and their sources:
•glycolic acid – sugar cane
•lactic acid – milk
•malic acid – apples and pears
•citric acid – oranges and lemons
•tartaric acid – grapes
AHAs are reported to improve wrinkling, roughness and mottled pigmentation of photodamaged skin after months of daily application. AHAs are recommended for all skin types but note any allergies given the type of acid used. Gentle AHA exfoliators (lower percentage acid with the addition of calming actives) are recommended for mature skin types and for rosacea.

Enzymatic Exfoliators:
Enzymes have a proteolytic effect and induce superficial exfoliation on the cells of the stratum corneum. Exfoliating enzymes remove the dry superficial, dull skin cells by digesting the proteins into smaller fragments, preventing a build-up. The most common enzymatic exfoliators are naturally derived from pineapple and papaya. Pineapple contains bromelain; Papain is an enzyme found in unripe papayas. Enzymatic exfoliation is recommended for skin that has a thicker stratum corneum and for oily skin types. It is not recommended for use on sensitive skin.

If you choose the appropriate exfoliator for your skin type, you should exfoliate every week for best results.

Spring Skin: Top Skin Care Ingredients

Totalbeauty.com recently published an article on top skin care ingredients. Let’s take a look at the top tier (in no particular order) and SkinPhD’s products containing these ingredients.
1. Ceramides
What they do: Ceramide is the main component of the stratum corneum of the epidermis layer of human skin. Together with cholesterol and saturated fatty acids, ceramides create a water-impermeable, protective layer to prevent excessive water loss due to evaporation as well as a barrier against the entry of microorganisms. With aging there is a decline in ceramide and cholesterol in the stratum corneum. Ceramides are related to our #2 ingredient…
2. Niacinamide
What it does: A form of Vitamin B3, Niacinamide can stimulate new collagen synthesis and up-regulates epidermal ceramide synthesis with concurrent epidermal barrier benefits.  Niacinamide is also clinically known to treat pigmented lesions and, through its anti-inflammatory agents, effectively treats acne and rosacea.

SkinPhD Products with Niacinamide

retail pigmentation controlIMG_9092Liposome C&E Serum

Pigmentation Control          Even Tone Serum          Liposome C&E Serum

3. Grape Seed/Grape Stem Cell
What it does: High in antioxidant properties, polyphenols, and resveratrol that significantly reduce free-radical damage and combat wrinkles, this ingredient is a powerhouse for anti-aging.

4. Mineral Hematite
What it does: This mineral, known for its energy and high in iron, reinforces the mechanical properties of the skin and rebuilds the fibril network. It helps to re-densify the
epidermis and fights against thinning of the skin. Mineral Hematite is more effective at Type I Collagen Production than is Retinol.

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Hematite Grape Stem Cell Serum

5. Retinol
What it does: Retinol is Vitamin A; it promotes the enzyme activity in the skin, thickens the epidermis, increases collagen resulting in improved texture and enhanced barrier function.

E&A web size

SuperOxidant E&A Serum

6. Linoleic/ linolenic acids
What they do: These fatty acids replenish the skin’s intercellular matrix and act as a protector. They contain a natural tocopherol concentrate as antioxidant and make the skin look younger while giving it a radiant shine.  They soothe dry skin and have anti-inflammatory properties.

Day Care Lotion

SkinPhD Cosmeceutical Day Care Lotion has Linoleic/ linolenic acids and is clinically-endorsed for sensitivity

7.  Hydrolyzed Soy Protein 
What it does: Extracted from GMO-free soybean, this regenerative active is obtained by gentle hydrolysis ensuring a balanced composition in peptides (rich in essential amino-acids). By increasing the cell energetic potential, it stimulates cellular renewal, thereby helping improve skin radiance. Studies show that these derivatives inhibit environmental damage, reduce irritation, improve skin texture, build collagen and fight sun damage.  SkinPhD products that include non-GMO soy protein:

Platinum Perfect Defense Serum retail eye care balm

Perfect Defense Serum                   Eye Care Balm

8. Vitamin C
What it does: A free radical scavenger, Vitamin C activates collagen synthesis and influences the metabolism of amino acids. It inhibits the synthesis of melanin that leads to even tone and lighter pigmentation while protecting the cells against UV-damages by scavenging free radicals and preventing the lipids from peroxidase. Encapsulated Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a very stable form of Vitamin C.  SkinPhD Products with Vitamin C

Liposome C&E Serum IMG_0199 pap_enzy

Liposome C&E R                                   Razor Relief                              Papaya Enzymatic

9. Alpha Hydroxy Acids
What they do: They work mainly as an exfoliant. They cause the cells of the epidermis to become “unglued” allowing the dead cells to slough off, making room for regrowth of new skin. AHA may even stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. The following are the five major types of alpha hydroxy acids found in skincare products and their sources:
•glycolic acid – sugar cane
•lactic acid – milk
•malic acid – apples and pears
•citric acid – oranges and lemons
•tartaric acid – grapes

AHAs are reported to improve wrinkling, roughness and mottled pigmentation of photodamaged skin after months of daily application.
AHA have been shown to promote smoother, younger looking skin by increasing the rate of cell renewal.

Exfol-AHA 7 Fruit Exfol-AHA Gentle

AHA 7 Fruit  Amidroxy                             AHA Gentle Exfoliating Cream 

The Big Picture on Exfoliation

by Casey Durrett, LEI – Social Media Director and National Educator, SkinPhD

If you’ve spent much time in the world of beauty, you’ll know that exfoliation seems to be the answer to everything skin. If you’ve got wrinkles – exfoliate. If you’re breaking out – exfoliate. If your complexion is dull – exfoliate. If you’ve got sun spots – exfoliate. If you’re dry – exfoliate. If you’re oily – exfoliate. So how is it that this one action can help to improve so many unsightly skin conditions? And with so many choices on the market today, how are we to know what to look for in an exfoliation product? How do all these different types of products really work with the skin? And could it be that there are risks associated with the overuse and/or misuse of these products?

 

If you’re a skin care therapist, or if you’ve visited one – you know we estheticians love our exfoliants. We love to use scrubs, enzymes, hydroxy acids, microdermabrasion, and chemical peels. Aside from a handful of conditions that contraindicate exfoliating, you’ll see us prescribing the use of exfoliants for just about every skin care concern imaginable. The chart below will provide information on some of the common skin types and concerns and how exfoliating properly can improve them.

 

How Exfoliation Improves Common Skin Types and Concerns

Dry Skin

An actual dry skin “type” is skin that does not produce adequate oil.   This is not to be confused with normal or oily skin that is experiencing a   build-up of dry, flaky skin cells. Truly dry skin may be fragile, sensitive,   and have a tendency to age prematurely. Proper exfoliation of dry skin will   improve skin texture and increase the movement of new healthy cells to the   skin’s surface. It may also improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles   commonly associated with drier skin.

 

Oily Skin

In oily skin, dead skin cells may have a harder time shedding from   the skin because excess oil works as a glue that keeps dead skin cells stuck   to the surface of the skin. This combination of oil and excess dead skin   cells can clog follicles and lead to increased follicle size and breakouts.

 

Excess Pigmentation

Pigmentation concerns are a 3-phase process. Excess pigmentation is   first activated by some form of stimuli (hormonal, inflammatory, etc.),   melanin is then synthesized inside melanocytes (melanin producing cells) and   delivered to the surrounding skin cells. The final phase of this process is   what we call “expression” this is where we visibly see pigmentation on the   skin’s surface. Exfoliation targets the “expression” stage by sloughing off   pigmented cells that have moved to the higher surface layers of the skin. It   also improves the rate of cell migration from lower layers of the epidermis   which can help pigmented cells to surface and be shed off more quickly. It is   important to note, however, that exfoliating alone is not a viable option for   controlling pigmentation concerns. All three phases must be targeted to   provide a true solution for skin with excess pigmentation.

 

Breakouts

Breakouts can be attributed to a number of factors. We often see   complications with excess oil, uneven shedding of the follicles, acne-causing   bacteria being trapped in the follicles, and excess dead skin cell build-up   (other factors may be involved in breakouts as well). By responsibly   exfoliating skin that is prone to breakouts, we can reduce the amount of dead   skin cells on the skin’s surface, and with certain topical ingredients the   follicle interior can also be exfoliated. This can allow increased oxygen   into the skin, decrease the amount of trapped bacteria, and clear the skin of   congestive factors that contribute to breakouts.

 

Aging Skin

As we age the process of cells dividing and moving up through the   layers of the skin is slowed. Dead and rough cells linger on the skin’s surface   longer and eventually we see an increased build-up of these dead, dry cells.   As the top of the skin is thickening, the lower layers of the skin that keep   the skin looking firm and plump are decreasing in thickness. Rough texture,   lack of a healthy glow, fine lines and wrinkles are all common signs of skin   that is aging or prematurely aging.    Exfoliation of aging/prematurely aging skin can smooth the skin’s   surface, speed up the rate at which new, healthy cells are delivered to the   surface, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Certain   exfoliating agents actually penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and   help to restore vitality to the areas of the skin where problems actually begin.

 

 

Responsible Exfoliation:  Brings Positive Results without Negative Side Effects

As you can see, exfoliation is an integral tool in managing a variety of skin concerns. Texture is improved, new and healthy cells can move more quickly to the surface, breakouts and excessive pigmentation can be reduced, complexion can become brighter and more radiant, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles can be significantly reduced. The key to these improvements, however, is exfoliating in a way that brings about these positive changes without damaging the integrity of the skin.

The skin is an important barrier and a living organ. It is designed with purpose and function. All too often skin is attacked, abraded, peeled, scrubbed, and over-exfoliated to the point of creating damage to not only the barrier of the skin but also the deeper tissues. The results of improper exfoliation can lead to disrupted barrier function, increased skin sensitivity, injury to fragile capillaries, stimulation of excess melanin in darker skin types, damage to the lower layers of the skin, and premature aging.  Unfortunately, we don’t always see this damage taking place, so we don’t make the connection between exfoliating too much (or improperly) with negative changes happening in our skin.

Higher levels of exfoliation should be left to the hands of well-trained professionals. Chemical peels and microdermabrasion should not be performed at home and should be administered by licensed skin therapists. Home-care exfoliants such as alpha hydroxy acids and scrubs should be gentle, used as prescribed, and the skin should be monitored for any changes good or bad. Irritation, excessive redness and/or flaking of the skin are all signs that we may be over-exfoliating. For breakout prone skin, over-exfoliating may actually stimulate additional breakouts.

 

Choosing and Using Exfoliants Properly

  • Chemical formulations that include alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acid, enzymes, etc. should be gentle and not cause excessive stinging, burning, or discomfort. Pain is often associated with a
    product “working” – this is a dangerous viewpoint. Exfoliation does not have to be painful to work!

 

  • Look for formulas that have added benefits. A great exfoliator won’t just take away the dead skin cells it will have added ingredients to create additional benefits in the skin. For instance, an exfoliator for dry skin should be formulated differently than an exfoliator for oily or breakout prone skin. Be sure your product is targeted to your specific skin type and condition/s.

 

  • Mechanical exfoliants such as facial scrubs should not be overly abrasive and should not be aggressively scrubbed into and over the skin. Go for a “polishing” movement rather than a heavy handed scrubbing action. These exfoliants are best suited to skin when the abrading agent isn’t extremely rough and jagged. The ever popular “apricot scrubs” are well known for creating micro-tears in the skin which, though invisible, lead to inflammation and barrier disruption.

 

  • More isn’t better. Over-using exfoliators is more detrimental to the skin than failing to exfoliate at all. Use exfoliants as directed. Generally, an exfoliant should be used 1-2 times per week, but this will vary according to product type and strength. Follow package directions.

 

Exfoliating Products worth Discovering

With the above guidelines in mind, I’d like to introduce you the SkinPhD exfoliating products. These products are designed to promote positive changes in the skin without causing irritation or barrier disruption. I have personally used each of these products and work with them professionally in my skin care business. They are effective, non-irritating, and the results of regular use are beautiful.

AHA 7   Fruit Amidroxy Exfoliator


Selected Best Anti-Aging Product!
see www.drozshow.com

This concentrated serum contains a special blend   of red and citrus fruits that gently and effectively exfoliate the skin   leaving it radiant and with improved color and complexion.

  •   Provitamin B5   moisturizes the skin, makes the skin more elastic, and has an anti-inflammatory   effect
  •   Natural sources of   alpha hydroxy acids contain minerals, vitamins, and proteins. These   substances work together to slough away dead skin cells, stimulate collagen   synthesis, and increase cellular renewal.
  •   Red Fruit Amidroxy   is rich in minerals, Vitamin C, Flavanoids and other skin improving actives   providing cellular regeneration and protection against free radical damage.
  •   Suitable for all   skin types
AHA Gentle Exfoliating CreamIdeal for the Special Needs   of Dry Skin – A gentle exfoliating   cream that effectively helps slough away dead, dry skin cells while also   moisturizing and improving skin softness.

  •   Exfoliates with a   multi-fruit alpha hydroxy acid complex that increases cellular regeneration   and collagen synthesis while restoring radiance to dry skin.
  •   Contains Spirulina   which is rich in protein, vitamins, and minerals.
  •   This unique   formulation also contains shea butter which has unique healing properties and   a wonderful fatty acid profile that moisturizes the skin, improves elasticity,   and prevents wrinkle formation.
  •   An effective   formula for dry skin – exfoliation and rich moisturizing activity in one   product.
 AHA Exfoliating Cream
  Papaya Enzymatic ExfoliantA Wonderful Skin-Polisher   with Enzymes and Micro-SpongesThis   enzymatic exfoliant also contains soft, round micro-sponges that soften and   smooth the skin.

  •   Enzymes in this   formula effectively remove dead skin cells while avoiding irritation and   dryness.
  •   Contains Vitamins   A and C to neutralize free radicals.
  •   Micro-Sponges   gently cleanse and polish the skin’s surface.
  •   Ideal for darker   skin, oily skin, and thick skin.
  •   This product is an   excellent replacement to harsh scrubs that actually cause damage in the skin.

Think over your current exfoliation routine. Have you been using the same product or method for an extended period of time and aren’t seeing visible results? If so, I want to encourage you to review how you’re exfoliating – how often, in what way, and is the product you’re using appropriate for your skin? Is it providing benefits beyond removing dead cells?  If not, it’s time for a change!

Healthy, radiant skin is an attainable goal, and SkinPhD exfoliants can help you reach that goal more quickly, without irritation, and with results you will definitely see.

For more information on our products and signature therapies, please visit us at www.skinphd.com.

The Great Benefits of Exfoliation

by Holly Harmon, Master Aesthetician and Executive Director of Training for Placécol USA. 

We often find in the aesthetics profession that many of our clients do not understand the importance of making exfoliation a part of their weekly skin care regimen.  What does exfoliation do?  The term exfoliation refers to the sloughing or peeling away of the horny layer or outer layer of the skin, also known as the corneum.  An exfoliant is a particular ingredient that facilitates this process.

Let’s look at the skin cells journey:  new skin cells are created in the skin’s lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic. During their 30 day journey, they die and become saturated with keratin. Keratin is important because it protects the skin from outside elements. Through the ageing process, and after menopause for women, the natural process of skin erosion becomes uneven, which gives skin a dry and rough character. Exfoliation removes the outer layer to reveal the newer skin beneath. This shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean and more youthful/healthy in appearance, and helps reduce acne breakouts. There are different types of exfoliants, ranging from chemical, acidic, or enzymatic exfoliants to mechanical exfoliation (such as microdermabrasion).

Chemical exfoliants include scrubs, serums or gels containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid which may be applied in high concentrations by a dermatologist or in lower concentrations in over-the-counter products. Chemical exfoliation may also involve the use of products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) that act to weaken the bonds that  holds the skin cells together and sloughs them away more readily.

Why is it vital to skin health?  There are great benefits of exfoliation.  Women have exfoliated their skin for centuries.  In fact, credit is given to the ancient Egyptians for the practice of exfoliation.  Proper and habitual exfoliating can improve dull, lifeless skin tone; oily, clogged pores with minor acne, blackheads and/or whiteheads; dehydrated skin with cell build-up and flakiness; and in some cases, improve fine lines and wrinkles.  Just remember… “you must remove to improve!”

 While we recommend a professional facial at least once per month or once every other month for skin health and we absolutely recommend that you exfoliate two times per week.1

This is your facial at home!  Placécol has several exfoliating options for your skin-specific needs.  Two of Placécol’s exfoliants are rich in alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).  The skin-rejuvenating properties of certain AHA’s have been known for centuries. Cleopatra bathed in sour milk, which contains lactic acid, and the women of the French court washed their faces in spoiled wine, which contains tartaric acid.  AHA’s are weak organic acids. They are naturally found throughout nature in sugar cane as glycolic acid, in sour milk as lactic acid, and in fruits as malic, citric and tartaric acids.  The principal cosmetic actions of AHA’s on the skin are increased exfoliation and moisturization. The moisturizing qualities of cosmetic AHA’s help diminish the appearance of fine lines and help maintain the skin’s proper moisture level.   Low concentration AHA’s facilitate shedding of the outer layer of the epidermis resulting in cosmetically improved skin with a radiant, youthful glow to the skin.  With proper and regular exfoliation, your skin will radiate a healthy glow. Visible improvements appear in skin texture, smoothness, and overall skin health.

Placecol’s Gentle Exfoliating Serum contains AHA’s origin form red berries such Blackcurrant and Bilberry, containing citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid and malic acid. These red fruits are rich in sugars, minerals and vitamin C, an active stimulant for cell regeneration that protects the skin against free radicals.  It also contains glycoproteins which increase cell turnover and cell proliferation while stimulating the skin’s immunosystem.

 ahaPlacécol’s AHA Exfoliating Cream is rich in Bilberry, Sugar Cane, Sugar Maple, Orange and Lemon extract it is also enriched with Shea butter for additional mildness on the skin.  This concentrated blend of five botanical extracts contains several naturally occurring alpha hydroxyl acids.  These extracts contain a wide variety of residual natural substances, such as cellulose, carbohydrates, proteins, water soluble vitamins and minerals.  The primary action of AHA’s lies in their keratolytic ability – they weaken bonds that hold dead skin cells together. When these bonds are weakened, the dead skin cells can be shed from the surface of the skin, resulting in skin that appears fresher, smoother and younger.

This natural fruit acid blend also helps to normalize and improve the production of new skin cells, while the addition of Shea butter nourishes and conditions the skin, leaving it in superlative condition.  Suitable for dry, sensitive skin.

 

gentle-exfoliatorPlacécol’s Platinum Gentle Exfoliator with Papaya is a unique and highly effective exfoliator that uses papaya as the fruit acid exfoliator.  This highly effective exfoliator is designed for mature/dry skin with changing hormone levels and appearance of fine lines & wrinkles.  It contains super hydrating Ximenia Oil and Calendula Oil leaving your skin more youthful in appearance, toned, hydrated, and rejuvenated.

 

The regular use of products such as Placecol’s Gentle Exfoliating Serum, AHA Exfoliating Cream,  or the Platinum Gentle Exfoliator with Papaya make skin appear fresher, smoother and younger while at the same time releasing the benefits of hydration and collegen sythesis from lactic and citric acids. These products are effective yet gentle enough as to not over-exfoliate or break down the skins natural protection and impeded cellular function while improving the over-all health of your skin.  A simple addition of a good exfoliator to your skin care regime can have beautiful and skin healthy results!

1It is important to note that exfoliation can cause irritation or damage to the skin and capillaries if overused or used incorrectly. It is recommended that you seek the advice of a skin care professional to assess your skin type and proper skin care regimen.