Tag Archives: cosmeceuticals

The Big Picture on Exfoliation

by Casey Durrett, LEI – Social Media Director and National Educator, SkinPhD

If you’ve spent much time in the world of beauty, you’ll know that exfoliation seems to be the answer to everything skin. If you’ve got wrinkles – exfoliate. If you’re breaking out – exfoliate. If your complexion is dull – exfoliate. If you’ve got sun spots – exfoliate. If you’re dry – exfoliate. If you’re oily – exfoliate. So how is it that this one action can help to improve so many unsightly skin conditions? And with so many choices on the market today, how are we to know what to look for in an exfoliation product? How do all these different types of products really work with the skin? And could it be that there are risks associated with the overuse and/or misuse of these products?

 

If you’re a skin care therapist, or if you’ve visited one – you know we estheticians love our exfoliants. We love to use scrubs, enzymes, hydroxy acids, microdermabrasion, and chemical peels. Aside from a handful of conditions that contraindicate exfoliating, you’ll see us prescribing the use of exfoliants for just about every skin care concern imaginable. The chart below will provide information on some of the common skin types and concerns and how exfoliating properly can improve them.

 

How Exfoliation Improves Common Skin Types and Concerns

Dry Skin

An actual dry skin “type” is skin that does not produce adequate oil.   This is not to be confused with normal or oily skin that is experiencing a   build-up of dry, flaky skin cells. Truly dry skin may be fragile, sensitive,   and have a tendency to age prematurely. Proper exfoliation of dry skin will   improve skin texture and increase the movement of new healthy cells to the   skin’s surface. It may also improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles   commonly associated with drier skin.

 

Oily Skin

In oily skin, dead skin cells may have a harder time shedding from   the skin because excess oil works as a glue that keeps dead skin cells stuck   to the surface of the skin. This combination of oil and excess dead skin   cells can clog follicles and lead to increased follicle size and breakouts.

 

Excess Pigmentation

Pigmentation concerns are a 3-phase process. Excess pigmentation is   first activated by some form of stimuli (hormonal, inflammatory, etc.),   melanin is then synthesized inside melanocytes (melanin producing cells) and   delivered to the surrounding skin cells. The final phase of this process is   what we call “expression” this is where we visibly see pigmentation on the   skin’s surface. Exfoliation targets the “expression” stage by sloughing off   pigmented cells that have moved to the higher surface layers of the skin. It   also improves the rate of cell migration from lower layers of the epidermis   which can help pigmented cells to surface and be shed off more quickly. It is   important to note, however, that exfoliating alone is not a viable option for   controlling pigmentation concerns. All three phases must be targeted to   provide a true solution for skin with excess pigmentation.

 

Breakouts

Breakouts can be attributed to a number of factors. We often see   complications with excess oil, uneven shedding of the follicles, acne-causing   bacteria being trapped in the follicles, and excess dead skin cell build-up   (other factors may be involved in breakouts as well). By responsibly   exfoliating skin that is prone to breakouts, we can reduce the amount of dead   skin cells on the skin’s surface, and with certain topical ingredients the   follicle interior can also be exfoliated. This can allow increased oxygen   into the skin, decrease the amount of trapped bacteria, and clear the skin of   congestive factors that contribute to breakouts.

 

Aging Skin

As we age the process of cells dividing and moving up through the   layers of the skin is slowed. Dead and rough cells linger on the skin’s surface   longer and eventually we see an increased build-up of these dead, dry cells.   As the top of the skin is thickening, the lower layers of the skin that keep   the skin looking firm and plump are decreasing in thickness. Rough texture,   lack of a healthy glow, fine lines and wrinkles are all common signs of skin   that is aging or prematurely aging.    Exfoliation of aging/prematurely aging skin can smooth the skin’s   surface, speed up the rate at which new, healthy cells are delivered to the   surface, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Certain   exfoliating agents actually penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and   help to restore vitality to the areas of the skin where problems actually begin.

 

 

Responsible Exfoliation:  Brings Positive Results without Negative Side Effects

As you can see, exfoliation is an integral tool in managing a variety of skin concerns. Texture is improved, new and healthy cells can move more quickly to the surface, breakouts and excessive pigmentation can be reduced, complexion can become brighter and more radiant, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles can be significantly reduced. The key to these improvements, however, is exfoliating in a way that brings about these positive changes without damaging the integrity of the skin.

The skin is an important barrier and a living organ. It is designed with purpose and function. All too often skin is attacked, abraded, peeled, scrubbed, and over-exfoliated to the point of creating damage to not only the barrier of the skin but also the deeper tissues. The results of improper exfoliation can lead to disrupted barrier function, increased skin sensitivity, injury to fragile capillaries, stimulation of excess melanin in darker skin types, damage to the lower layers of the skin, and premature aging.  Unfortunately, we don’t always see this damage taking place, so we don’t make the connection between exfoliating too much (or improperly) with negative changes happening in our skin.

Higher levels of exfoliation should be left to the hands of well-trained professionals. Chemical peels and microdermabrasion should not be performed at home and should be administered by licensed skin therapists. Home-care exfoliants such as alpha hydroxy acids and scrubs should be gentle, used as prescribed, and the skin should be monitored for any changes good or bad. Irritation, excessive redness and/or flaking of the skin are all signs that we may be over-exfoliating. For breakout prone skin, over-exfoliating may actually stimulate additional breakouts.

 

Choosing and Using Exfoliants Properly

  • Chemical formulations that include alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acid, enzymes, etc. should be gentle and not cause excessive stinging, burning, or discomfort. Pain is often associated with a
    product “working” – this is a dangerous viewpoint. Exfoliation does not have to be painful to work!

 

  • Look for formulas that have added benefits. A great exfoliator won’t just take away the dead skin cells it will have added ingredients to create additional benefits in the skin. For instance, an exfoliator for dry skin should be formulated differently than an exfoliator for oily or breakout prone skin. Be sure your product is targeted to your specific skin type and condition/s.

 

  • Mechanical exfoliants such as facial scrubs should not be overly abrasive and should not be aggressively scrubbed into and over the skin. Go for a “polishing” movement rather than a heavy handed scrubbing action. These exfoliants are best suited to skin when the abrading agent isn’t extremely rough and jagged. The ever popular “apricot scrubs” are well known for creating micro-tears in the skin which, though invisible, lead to inflammation and barrier disruption.

 

  • More isn’t better. Over-using exfoliators is more detrimental to the skin than failing to exfoliate at all. Use exfoliants as directed. Generally, an exfoliant should be used 1-2 times per week, but this will vary according to product type and strength. Follow package directions.

 

Exfoliating Products worth Discovering

With the above guidelines in mind, I’d like to introduce you the SkinPhD exfoliating products. These products are designed to promote positive changes in the skin without causing irritation or barrier disruption. I have personally used each of these products and work with them professionally in my skin care business. They are effective, non-irritating, and the results of regular use are beautiful.

AHA 7   Fruit Amidroxy Exfoliator


Selected Best Anti-Aging Product!
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This concentrated serum contains a special blend   of red and citrus fruits that gently and effectively exfoliate the skin   leaving it radiant and with improved color and complexion.

  •   Provitamin B5   moisturizes the skin, makes the skin more elastic, and has an anti-inflammatory   effect
  •   Natural sources of   alpha hydroxy acids contain minerals, vitamins, and proteins. These   substances work together to slough away dead skin cells, stimulate collagen   synthesis, and increase cellular renewal.
  •   Red Fruit Amidroxy   is rich in minerals, Vitamin C, Flavanoids and other skin improving actives   providing cellular regeneration and protection against free radical damage.
  •   Suitable for all   skin types
AHA Gentle Exfoliating CreamIdeal for the Special Needs   of Dry Skin – A gentle exfoliating   cream that effectively helps slough away dead, dry skin cells while also   moisturizing and improving skin softness.

  •   Exfoliates with a   multi-fruit alpha hydroxy acid complex that increases cellular regeneration   and collagen synthesis while restoring radiance to dry skin.
  •   Contains Spirulina   which is rich in protein, vitamins, and minerals.
  •   This unique   formulation also contains shea butter which has unique healing properties and   a wonderful fatty acid profile that moisturizes the skin, improves elasticity,   and prevents wrinkle formation.
  •   An effective   formula for dry skin – exfoliation and rich moisturizing activity in one   product.
 AHA Exfoliating Cream
  Papaya Enzymatic ExfoliantA Wonderful Skin-Polisher   with Enzymes and Micro-SpongesThis   enzymatic exfoliant also contains soft, round micro-sponges that soften and   smooth the skin.

  •   Enzymes in this   formula effectively remove dead skin cells while avoiding irritation and   dryness.
  •   Contains Vitamins   A and C to neutralize free radicals.
  •   Micro-Sponges   gently cleanse and polish the skin’s surface.
  •   Ideal for darker   skin, oily skin, and thick skin.
  •   This product is an   excellent replacement to harsh scrubs that actually cause damage in the skin.

Think over your current exfoliation routine. Have you been using the same product or method for an extended period of time and aren’t seeing visible results? If so, I want to encourage you to review how you’re exfoliating – how often, in what way, and is the product you’re using appropriate for your skin? Is it providing benefits beyond removing dead cells?  If not, it’s time for a change!

Healthy, radiant skin is an attainable goal, and SkinPhD exfoliants can help you reach that goal more quickly, without irritation, and with results you will definitely see.

For more information on our products and signature therapies, please visit us at www.skinphd.com.

SkinPhD Platinum – Ingredients for Optimal Aging

 

Casey Durrett, Social Media Manager, SkinPhD

 

by Casey Durrett, LEI – Social Media Director and National Educator, SkinPhD

 

The first step in an anti-aging skin care regimen is selecting products with optimal ingredients. Optimal ingredients produce Optimal Aging, and SkinPhD’s Platinum range has been formulated with this truth in mind. Our Platinum products for mature skin contain multi-functional complexes of actives that address the key factors in aging skin.

 

As a cosmeceutical range, SkinPhD Platinum products are biologically active and promote beneficial changes in the appearance of fine lines, deep wrinkles, skin tone and texture, and overall radiance. The Platinum range consists of specialized daily skin care products including targeted treatments for the delicate eye area and unique anti-aging, firming, and protective serums.

In working with aging skin, I often find that long-term use of many anti-aging products results in a new set of skin concerns. These often include redness, flakiness, increased UV sensitivity, thinning of the skin’s important protective barrier, and irritation. There is a prominent misconception in the beauty industry that aggression produces better results. This is simply untrue.  The skin is a living, functioning organ, and as with any other major organ of the body, if you constantly attack it and deprive it of critical nutrition, damge will be the result. 

SkinPhD Platinum nourishes, protects, and creates definite, positive changes in the skin without compromising skin health. This approach is critical to creating lasting improvement in the skin’s appearance.

 

Today I’ll walk you through the selection of products in the Platinum range and introduce you to the ingredients that make Platinum the best answer for Optimal Aging.  

SkinPhD Platinum


Cleanse and Tone

Soft Foam Cleanser

 A mild, non-drying foaming cleanser containing protective lipids and rich plant extracts. Our soft foam cleanser is effective at providing a thorough cleansing of the skin without leaving the skin feeling tight and irritated.

Key Ingredients

  • Zincite – a critical mineral to skin health. Zincite plays a vital role in cellular repair, DNA protection, cellular renewal, and collagen and elastin synthesis

    Zincite

    Zincite

 

 

Active Defense Toner

An alcohol-free toner that moisturizes, smoothes, and refreshes the skin.

Tip:  Toning is an often skipped (but much needed) step in a daily skin care routine. Toning skin with our Active Defense Toner after cleansing will hydrate the skin, increase spreadability of your daily moisturizer (making your product last longer), balance the pH of the skin, nourish the skin with important nutrients, and provide a plumper, smoother surface for makeup application.

Key Ingredients

  • Centella Asiatica Extract (Gotu Kola) – boosts circulation, regulates collagen, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory
  • MSM – a natural form of organic sulfur found in all living organisms. MSM is used by the body to repair and create healthy cells. Lack of adequate MSM in the body and skin leads to premature aging.
  • Zincite

 

Centella Asiatica

Centella Asiatica

 

 

 

Repair and Reverse

Flawless Day Cream

A light day cream that increases elasticity and firmness and decreases fine lines.

Key Ingredients

  • MSM
  • Zincite
  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 – Stimulates collagen biosynthesis, improves elasticity, effectively combats fine lines and wrinkles
  • Acmella Oleracea Extract– reduces wrinkles through its face-lift like activity

    Acmella Oleracea

    Acmella Oleracea

 

 

Extreme Night Cream

A multi-hydration night cream formula that will visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improve the skin’s texture and tone.

Key Ingredients

  • Zincite
  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
  • Kombucha (Black Tea Extract) – a detoxifying, hydrating extract that improves skin elasticity, tone, texture, clarity, and metabolism. Kombucha also possesses antioxidant and probiotic components.
  • Encapsulated Vitamin E – a rich, conditioning, antioxidant that is critical to skin health. Encapsulation ensures optimal activity and delivery of Vitamin E.

 

Eye and Mouth

Peptide Complex Eye Cream

A rich, fragrance-free formula designed for the delicate eye and mouth areas. This cream will firm and smooth the skin while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Key Ingredients

  • Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 – a peptide celebrated for its powerful ability at reducing puffiness in the eye area
  • Hexapeptide-10 – an extraordinary peptide with powerful skin restructuring and firming properties that visibly improves the appearance of thinning, sagging skin.

 

Ultra Rapid Perfecting Gel

A light, easily absorbed gel for the eyes that is rich in proteins and plant extracts. This gel will produce immediate improvement in the appearance of skin where applied. Regular use will result in increased skin brightness, tone, firmness, and youthfulness.

Tip:  I experience a good deal of redness and sensitivity after waxing my brows. Our Ultra Rapid Perfecting Gel reduces the redness and sensitivity unlike any product I’ve ever used post-brow-wax. It also works beautifully under eye makeup.

Key Ingredients

  • Centella Asiatica
  • Rice Bran Peptides– a peptide that protects collagen and improves skin that has been damaged by UV.

    Rice Bran

    Rice Bran

 

 

Firm and Protect

Perfecting Mask

A refreshing mask that reduces stress on aging skin. Rich in active plant extracts, this mask will tighten the skin, improve texture, and increase skin softness and suppleness.

Tip:  Masking is an important step in improving the skin. Think of your hair; we all understand that our hair needs deep conditioning and nourishment to keep it in a healthy state. Masking provides the same sort of treatment for the skin. Our Perfecting Mask will provide the skin with an extra dose of rejuvenating, soothing, and nourishing botanical extracts.

Key Ingredients

Arnica

 

Arnica Extract – a wildflower with wonderful healing properties that regulates circulation and has anti-inflammatory properties

 

 

Kigelia Africana

Kigelia Africana

 

Kigelia Africana Extract – derived from an indigenous African tree also called the Sausage Tree because of the sausage-like shape of its fruit. Kigelia Africana heals and conditions the skin, tightens and firms, and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. 

 
 
 
 
 

Ginko Biloba

 
Ginko Biloba – a plant active that increases circulation, boosts collagen formation, rejuvenates skin, and prevents capillary fragility. 

 

 

 

Active Complex Serum

A rich and light serum which absorbs easily into the skin and provides nourishment and hydration to the skin. This serum improves the appearance of deep lines and wrinkles, provides long-lasting moisturizing effects, and deeply nourishes the skin.

Key Ingredients

  • Hexapeptide-10
  • Zincite
  • Sodium Hyaluronate – a natural hydrating substance that is capable of holding up to 1000 times its weight in water. With its small molecular size, sodium hyaluronate penetrates deeply into the skin where it attracts and maintains water and promotes microcirculation and nutrient absorption.

 

Perfect Defense Serum

A light serum that protects and defends the skin against visible aging and dehydration. This serum oxygenates the skin, protects against free radical damage, and improves the appearance of skin’s elasticity.

Key Ingredients

  • Zincite
  • MSM
  • Hydrolyzed Soy Protein – increases the skin’s ability to retain moisture and provides long lasting smoothness that results in improved texture and reduced visibility of wrinkles.

Each Platinum product addresses the unique challenges associated with mature skin. A daily regimen of morning and evening use of Platinum products will result in smoother, more radiant, even textured, and more youthful skin without the negative side effects commonly associated with corrective skin care products.

For more information on our products and signature therapies, please visit us at www.skinphd.com.

New SkinPhD Ranges featuring Honeybush and Zincite

  

 

by Casey Durrett, LEI – Social Media Director and National Educator, SkinPhD

SkinPhD is unveiling several new product ranges this summer that target very specific skin care concerns. These new product ranges include our Platinum range that centers on Optimal Aging and our Clarify range that improves the challenges often seen in oily skin types.

I’m so thrilled to be writing this blog! Why? Because I’m so fond of the new SkinPhd Platinum and Clarify formulations and I want to share my excitement with you!  Working in the skin care industry means that I’m exposed to many different product and treatment options on an on-going basis. My philosophy in skin care is that we must provide positive change in the appearance of the skin without creating negative side effects and without damaging or creating an imbalance in the skin. Oddly enough, this can actually be a tricky feat for skin therapists. A number of professional treatments and product actives may create a positive effect in the skin, but when used in excess or improperly these same treatments and ingredients can be highly aggressive and detrimental to skin health. I believe we find these types of actives and treatments most abundantly in the anti-aging and oil-control/breakout realms, and this is why I’m thrilled about the new SkinPhD Platinum and SkinPhD Clarify ranges.

SkinPhD Platinum and SkinPhD Clarify will improve challenging skin care concerns without compromising skin health. In fact, these products will encourage the integrity of the skin! Let’s now look at these two ranges and a couple of the ingredients that make them unique.

SkinPhD Clarify is developed for clients who have oily and challenging skin.

 

A key feature of this product range is the Honeybush plant – a natural anti-bacterial and anti-fungal plant from the Cape of South Africa. Honeybush is a close cousin to the well-known Rooibos plant. Often consumed as a tea, Honeybush is characterized by a sweet, honey-like scent.

In our Clarify line, Honeybush not only reduces levels of bacteria in the skin but also provides other layers of protection much needed by oily and problem-prone skin – including anti-inflammatory activity and antioxidant protection.

 

Key features of Honeybush:

  • Anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral
  • Limits the growth and reproduction of Propionibacterium Acnes (P. acnes) – the bacteria associated with breakouts
  • Anti-inflammatory
  • Contains minerals including iron, potassium, calcium, copper, zinc, manganese, and sodium
  • Improves skin healing and reduces irritation
  • Rich in polyphenol antioxidants
  • Gentle, non-sensitizing

 

 

 

SkinPhD Platinum is a cosemceutical range formulated for mature skin that is experiencing dryness, changes in hormone levels, fine lines, and wrinkles.

  

In addition to living plant cells, peptides, and patented collagen-building actives, this range contains Zincite – a zinc carbonate that may be found in an array of colors. The use of zinc dates back to ancient times when the Chinese used the mineral to reduce scarring.

Modern science has come to know zinc as an important mineral in the activity of over 200 enzymes. Zinc also plays an important role in every biological component related to growth and development.

Key Features of Zincite:

  • Plays a vital role in DNA and RNA metabolism – without zinc, cell division ceases
  • Assists in elastin and collagen synthesis
  • Protects DNA
  • Increases cellular repair
  • Suitable for daily application
  • Provides constant cellular protection against environmental stress
  • Improves skin elasticity and texture
  • Accelerates the renewal of skin cells
  • Reduces MMP-related collagen degradation
  • Non-iritating

 
As you looked over these featured ingredients did you notice the multiple-benefits they both possess? These are the types of ingredients we at SkinPhD love! As nearly all skin care concerns are related to multiple factors within the skin, we require ingredients with multi-faceted functions to truly create a positive environment for healthy change in the skin’s appearance.

SkinPhD Platinum and Clarify are full of sensible, suitable, effective ingredients and will deliver the results our clients demand.

For more information on our products, ingredients, or signature therapies, please visit us at www.skinphd.com.